Framing





The following directions in regard to framing will, I hope, be found

advantageous. When framing with a passepartout mat, always use



For a 16x20 portrait an 18x22 frame,

" 18x22 " " 20x24 "

" 20x24 " " 22x26 "

" 24x29 " " 25x30 "



I make a life-size portrait 25x30 on a 24x29 strainer. The reason for

using a larger frame than strainer is this: that it invariably happens

that the head of the portrait will not come in exactly the proper place

in the opening of the passepartout, and by having the frame two inches

larger each way you will be able to bring the head wherever desired in

this opening. When placing the picture in the frame, lay the latter

face down on a table and put in the glass, which should have been

perfectly cleaned; lay in the passepartout and fasten it with small

brads. Then lay the crayon down on the table face up and turn the frame

over on it, and after you have it in the proper place, draw the picture

and frame partially over the edge of the table, and from underneath

mark the back of the passepartout where the edges of the picture come;

then turn the frame and picture over so that it shall be face down. Now

cut eight strips of old tin-type metal one-quarter of an inch wide and

three inches long, making holes at each end of them for the tacks, and

with these strips fasten the picture in its place by tacking one end of

each to the strainer and the other end to the frame. Also cut a piece

of heavy manilla paper the size of the frame, lay it on a board, dampen

it with a sponge, apply starch paste around each side and the ends for

a space of six inches, and lay it over the back of the picture and

frame, pressing it down on the latter; then set it away to dry. This

will make a neat smooth back which will exclude moth and dust from the

portrait.





Fourth Method Of Making The Background Stipple Effect Framing facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

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